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Printing on Fabric: Coated and Uncoated | HP Latex | HP

Printing on Fabric: Coated and Uncoated | HP Latex | HP


There are some types of fabrics that I want to discuss, that I think is important to understand in order to print on fabric effectively. A printing on soft textile requires quite
a bit of understanding of soft textiles. In fact, fabrics are different. They’re constructed differently. And many of them have real important differences. And one of those big differences is, is it coated, or is it uncoated. So, what I’m going to discuss a little bit
today is the difference between an uncoated – What we call a soft, uncoated fabric. Sometimes people refer to them as a dye sub fabric – and a coated fabric, and the different approaches to the two medias. Now, the first one I’m going to talk about,
my friend here, the ugly dog, is a soft, uncoated fabric, or a soft, uncoated textile. This has no specialty coating. This is widely used in the dye sublimation industry. This is an HP product. This is new, very nice. It’s an HP light fabric. Prints beautiful. Probably falls under a category of poplin. This is what most people think of, or what
we generally thing of when we talk about printing on a fabric with a Latex printer. And one of its big virtues is that it can
print on this type of uncoated fabric. You know, it’s really… the only types of technology that print on uncoated fabric is dye sublimation. And the Latex printer, this generation in
particular, prints with the richness and saturation and clarity that sublimation does. No, I don’t have the full scratch and scuff
resistance that sublimation does, but it’s still more than sufficient for most applications
that you would do for, say, a trade show. This material, you would traditionally use the ink collectors. But you don’t necessarily have to use them. Kind of your test is, if you hold this up
to the light, and there’s no pinholes, then for the most part some of the weaves of an uncoated fabric will prevent any ink from going through. And then you’re pretty much good to go. Even if the pinholes are very light, you might get away with printing it without the ink collectors. So, there are some materials, some fabrics,
that print just fine without using the add-on ink collector, because it’s not really necessary. This material would print just fine on a 330, for example, or a 310, without using the ink collector. Now, you might get a residual amount of ink through on a long roll, that will get on the platen. And that’s simple. Just get a cotton cloth and some good isopropyl
alcohol and clean off the platen. It’s fairly easy. This is a real versatile fabric. It prints well. You could print it probably with or without the ink collectors. And it is an uncoated, soft textile. Most textile, I do recommend to put on the take-up roll. Now, there are classes of soft textiles and
fabrics that you can print directly on while it’s running, and you don’t necessarily have to use the take-up roll. But the take-up roll is very helpful to add the tension that fabric needs to travel through the print path properly. This material might work okay, or it might
go through the printer without the take-up roll. But some people put a little weight on the front of it, or something else to try to give it tension on the front. This is a good and very illustrative choice
of soft, uncoated textile. And there are probably seventy of them on
the Media Locator, from all different companies. You know, there’s Fisher, and Aurora, and
Heytex, and Berger, and George and Otto Friedrich, and HP. These are soft textiles. This is what most people think of when they print with Latex. But there’s also another category. Let me show it to you. This media – This is particularly made by Berger. It’s called Samba – this is coated textile. So, if you feel the front of it, it has kind
of a little bit of a sticky coating to it. There are several reasons for the sticky coating. The sticky coating will allow you to put a
little less ink at a faster speed, and still get a very nice print. This also is very good for things like, say, hanging banners. Also, if you notice, there’s really no fraying to it, so it cuts very nicely, even with a rotary cutter. Now, a coated material, sometimes called an
airtight material, those are good choices, also, for the 310 and 330, which do not have the ink collectors. Because usually, if it has a coating on it, no ink gets through the fabric and it sits on top. With uncoated fabrics, generally speaking, I’m going to run at 16 pass, somewhere between 175 percent and 230 percent ink. I have to slow it down a little bit, because
you’re putting more ink down on the surface in order to get the saturation and the color pop. But with a lot of coated fabrics, I can run
faster, sometimes 12 pass, with 150 or 175 percent ink, and get a beautiful print, because
the coating is actually helping me get a really nice, deep resonance with the color and the saturation. Now, this particular product does not run
well, at all, when you put these ink collectors in, because what happens is, it actually kind
of dips down into the ink collector, and it doesn’t allow it to lay nice and flat across the print platen. You’ll get sort of elongated text from it. So, I found that with the Samba, and material
similar to this, two things are true. One, you’re going to have to use the take-up
reel, because you need to have tension on this thinner material or it’s just going to
fall or fold in on itself while it prints. Also, it will print better, actually, with
the regular platens, and putting the ink collectors in. So, this type of coated, soft, thin fabric,
it prints beautiful, it prints at high speeds, it has great color resonance. But, there’s a few characteristics of it to be aware of. And one of them is, it really does need a take-up roll. And then the second is, it’s going to print
better with the regular flat platens in, as opposed to the ink collector platens. Coated fabrics are widely used for things like hanging banners, kind of pole banners that you would see indoors. Also, a lot of roll-up banners; they may use a coated fabric. Coated fabric is more designed, I would say,
to be put up and left up, because the coating can tend to crease or spider if you really work at it. Also, you’ll notice a lot of backlit fabrics,
soft backlit fabrics, they tend to be coated, because in order to print an effective backlit
fabric, you’ve got to put quite a bit of ink down. You really need that rich saturation, and the coating is going to assist with that amount of saturation. The great part about coating is the pop and the color you get. The drawback is the coating itself can be
a little sensitive or a little crease-prone. It’ll tend to spider from time to time. It’s probably not something you would want
to crunch up and stuff into a bag, like some of the soft or uncoated fabrics which would
be better choices for that. So, just wanted to give a general overview
of uncoated fabrics. What they’re for. Why you use them. And then sort of characteristics of the two.

Comments (2)

  1. Would these fabrics be machine washable after being printed out ( uncoated ) like for clothing.

  2. you guys need to have a video how to load fabric on the 570, this auto load feature is not very good, the previous model has a manual lever which is non existent on the 570

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