How to Cut Gemstones | Tips for Dealing With Inclusions & Heating

How to Cut Gemstones | Tips for Dealing With Inclusions & Heating

hi I’m Steve Moriarty from Moriarty’s
Gem Art, we’re a jeweler on the square in Crown Point, IN and we’re also available
online at and – so today what we’re
going to talk about is this beast this I’ve been putting off cutting for about
six months now and it’s time to get to it you know the reasons that have held
me back on this is because of the difficulties of the inclusions that are
in in it to deal with and also a little bit of fear because I’ve seen a piece
like this before and actually had fractured on me while I was cutting and
it was got a cut a hunter carat stone this one will pry cut a thirty and a
second stone on this side that’s probably going to be somewhere around 10
carat so over the next week or so we’re gonna run through the process of cutting
this and and show you cutters the difficulties that I have to deal with
and and hopefully we’ll end up with a couple of beautiful stones when we’re
done this is a natural color tanzanite this is how it was mine but it has very
pure colors no green to it not an extremely dark color but really a nice
crystal and I’m going to show you what the dichroic colors or trichroic colors
and a natural tanzanite look like so obviously I get this right how’s that
look so this should be the purple and yellow and that may be the blue and yellow and this
direction is maybe the blue and the purple I can’t see it so I’m just doing
it for memory but so the yellow color that you see in there what’s going to
happen is once I’ve cut this down and get all the inclusions out because
inclusions tend to break once you start heating these because we’re gonna heat
this to a thousand degrees and that yellow is going to disappear and just
leave the blue and purple and that’s what we expect from tanzanite that
yellow is kind of making this look like diesel they call this diesel it’s kind
of a brownish reddish color and once it’s heated that’s going to disappear
and and we should have a couple of beautiful tanzanite alright so this is
our crystal very very clear crystal so I don’t really have to use immersion
fluids if I if I had an issue that the surface was rough and I couldn’t see
into it easily you can use wintergreen oil this is available online it’s just
pure wintergreen oil it’s got a refractive index maybe one fifty two so
on most gems it’s very helpful you can either just wipe it on the surface or
you can immerse it and and look into the Jim so you can use the light or you can
use your flashlight now I’ve looked at this in the scope and use the visor and
and I’ve tried to plot out a map showing where all my inclusions are so I can try
and figure out what to cut from this we’ve got issues of the way this crystal
is shaped on the back you know it the angle that it’s at we have to consider
so let’s take a look at the map I’ve made of this stone I’ve plotted out all
the inclusions in two different sizes so first of all there’s a lot of inclusions
up here at the top so I vex them out that’s unusable material I’ll show you
that so those inclusions are up in here
they’re in both tips of both these crystals so we’re just going to cut that
away and the next inclusion that’s a problem
runs right across here so it’s five point five millimeters from the edge and
I’ve got about twenty millimeters height and and we’ve got about thirty
millimeters across this way so my usable depth on this is 12
millimeters the actual depth at this point is fourteen point seven
millimeters so let me show you that so this is the inclusion that I’ve got to
deal with you know I’ve estimated its depth these often run deeper than you
expect so you assumed if you think it’s two millimeters deep it’s two and a half
three millimeters you’ll find that through all your cutting that everything
is deeper than what you think but I’ve tried to estimate it well and and the
other issue because it’s a twin crystal there’s usually a plane that runs
through here and in some pieces you can see absolutely that there’s a visual
plane and this piece you can’t see it but I’m going to assume it is and that
we’re not going to cut across that plane and I’ll show you that in another
picture so this is between the two crystals and you can see this plane that
runs here I’m not sure I think this is the plane we’re going to deal with and
and we’re going to saw it right across that right through here and we’re kind
of stone here and a cut of stone here so this is the plane we’re going to saw
through next this is the inclusion I have to deal with I have determined that
this inclusion side is going to be my pavilion and I look at this point being
where the culet will be so I do some kind of brilliant cut the cut is
naturally going to go above this inclusion if I predict that that
correctly now we’re gonna saw the crystal across that line that separates
the twin crystals and then we’ll determine what we’re going to cut from
it so I’ve got this little point here that’s kind of in the way of getting a
straight cut down on the crystal so I’m going to try and cut into that slightly
make room back and line the saw up okay all right so I got rid of that little
crystal tip now I should be able to to hit this line again you can maybe see
the line I’m going to cut down so as I was cutting it split right along
that line so there was a weak point there so but it split perfectly for me
so I didn’t even have the saw at all so that means that during cutting it
probably would have split there if I tried to cut it across that crystal so
you can see I cut maybe a third of the way down and then it just split along
that line and it’s exactly the line that showed that came out the bottom of this
stones so there is another line over here so I hope it’s not an issue with
that but we’ll find out when we start cutting this bigger piece so we’ve got
our two pieces now we’ll top them up and I’ll cut away the bad parts of it see
what I’ve got left and determined just what kind of got to do with these two so before I adopt this up I’m gonna take
out the problems that are in the tip and work on the shape a little bit so just
this makes it easier to figure out what the center of the stone is when you’re
dopping so this lap I believe is pray about a 400 I’m not using very coarse
right now and I’m caught across the bath to try it
or even with you across the lap or you may use vagina meds in it and that’s
good most everything out of this crystal now
all more easily find the center when I’m topping it and then the same with this
one the inclusions go a little further in this this piece all right here’s our finished preforms they’re both looking kind of square
cushiony to me so this started out as 112 carat currently we’re about a
hundred and one carats here’s this is a 66 carat piece now this piece measures
18 by 18 by 14 now I if you want to figure out the percentage depth that is
you take the depth and divide it by the width and that gives a 77% on the stone
and 77% is is a deep enough material that you can cut it properly
the other piece this weighs 35 carat it measures 15 by 15 by 11 and if we divide
11 by 15 we get 73% so this can be somewhere between 73 and 80% depth so I
say it’s looking like some kind of cushion I do have this issue here that
I’m gonna have to match all around it but looking at this I’m estimating maybe
40% out of these pieces of rough possibly 45 but probably 40% so we’re
gonna get somewhere between 12 and 15 carat out of this piece and maybe 25 to
30 carat out of this piece so next we’re going to top this up and get ready for
cutting so I’m gonna first stop this larger piece of tanzanite the 66 carat
piece and I want to cut the pavilion first so I’m gonna top the opposite side
of the side with the big crack in it and first of all I use some dental wax
that’s available from any drugstore nice and sticky and will
form to the stone and hold it in place once you get it centered to where you
want it and I’m using a dot that’s about the size of the stone I have to use as a
centering device make sure there’s no flats on it because often we’ll be
cutting and we’ll cut into the top so pick one that’s nice and round and it’s
a very helpful device and centering your stone so now that I think I have it
centered just press it into the the wax and I’m gonna find right up to that’s
appropriate size to glue this down Hubbell and then I’m also going to follow
through and check my measurement with a millimeter gauge just to make sure accurate so I’m ready to mix some glue and DAP
this up it’s often best if you’d opt under the dot but it’s also harder to
get off and my greatest fear is that this piece of material is like one that
broke on me when I was trying to heat this top loose so I started just putting
glue around the edge and then I can peel it off and easily remove it and that’s
what I’m gonna do with this stone just because this stone reminds me so much of
that one that blew up on me then I’m going to try and not put too much heat
to this even though I have to heat it to a thousand degrees later I’m gonna just
die around the edge I say in in most towns if they will take the heat and you
know they’re not real eat sensitive you should that beneath the top it will hold
better you won’t have the problem that falling off but this time I’m just gonna
put it around the edge now I’ve previously cleaned this down and the top
with alcohol and made sure all the old old epochs he was off it so we’re just
gonna mix equal parts of this epoxy it’s a big stone so we need to have plenty of
glue okay that should be good so what I’m
going to do is is put the glue up further on the top and let it just drip
down on to it and then it won’t get under the stone I say the risk of this
is that it breaks free because you don’t have that extra support beneath between
the top directly and the stone but I’ll be able to just pick this off and have
less risk of causing damage from heating up the job too much and it actually
caused some problem with the stone I say it seldom happens but it happened on a
tanzanite just like this so just manipulate it so you don’t get the glue
over the edge of the stone you don’t want to be cutting into glue it’s tough
on the left and it takes a long time to cut through glue so this will need to
set ideally overnight but at least three or four hours before you go cutting so it’s been about seven hours and we
should be ridden hard and hopefully it’ll stay on the dot for me so let’s
take it out of the transfer block make sure everything’s good and tight usually square it up and now I’m gonna
try and get it square if you look at it closely you can see I’ve got a pretty
big corner here that I have to deal with so one way or another it’s gonna have to
be matched up on all four sides so first I’m gonna cut it 90 degrees and and get
the get the four side Square and I’m cutting with the lap that’s about a 400
grit just kind of check see how square I am and that’s pretty well centered I got
the top and center piece pretty well so now we’re fairly well squared up and
I still have this issue and it’s the girdles that call the way over here but
we’re not going to cut a square we’re cutting a Christian shape so there’ll be
some angle settled that’ll take this material and give me an even girdle all
the way around hopefully so I’ve run into a bit of an issue here
and on this corner here you can see where that line is and it appears to run
a little deeper than I expected so what I’m going to do first is seen as
I know I’m gonna have to get rid of this amount of material at least on this side
and I can cut that and I know I’m not gonna be losing anything I’m gonna cut
there and see what’s left of that inclusion when I’m done and it is
possible I may have to change the cut style I’m doing I can see it could be a
sheet a shield if this is a problem that it runs too deep so I’ve got to cut a
little bit on this facet that is got me on a square a little bit but I’m gonna
cut the matching facet to the other side and see what that inclusion looks like so this is the part of the stone that’s
like a facet on the girdle that’s got me out of square that is material I had to
deal with but I can cut on this side and take a equivalent amount of material and
see what’s left of that inclusion before I proceed so it does go a little deeper than I
thought I’m not sure if it’s my girdle that I may miss it but it’s looked like
it could be a problem so I’m gonna try and analyze this little more and I’ll
get back with you with what I decide to do so this is something that sometimes
happens inclusions that you know are there but you don’t know exactly how
deep they run and looking at this it runs deeper and I thought so making this
a square cushion is probably not going to be possible so what I’m gonna do I’m
gonna cut a little more through this inclusion try and get most of it out and
then because I won’t be square on the top now I’m gonna have to remove this
stone and read op it to the center so it’s gonna create a few more problems
because that inclusion I’m trying to miss that’s up here is going to get
closer to the culet to the center so it’s gonna create a little more problem
so this is why I put this stone off for so long because I knew it was going to
be trouble but I think we’ll get through it and
it’s just going to create a little more work so I continue to run into issues
with this stone I’ve got most of the one problem inclusion out and I’m now down
to 56 carats and you know this is where this wintergreen oil comes in handy
because this roughened surface from the cutting lap now when we put the oil on
it you can easily see into the stone through that rough surface so the
problem I was cutting out is right here but can you see it but if we look
further there’s a plane that runs across this direction and I’m not gonna be able to get that
completely out almost looks like a cleavage plane hopefully it doesn’t part
there but it is vertical it’ll be vertical to my table it’ll be out that
the girdle of the stone so it’s probably not going to show up long as it stays in
one piece and and I’ll get most of it out but they’ll be still a little bit of
that left also spotted a little crystal in here that I hope that’s out because
they don’t eat well so this is a disaster waiting to happen but we’ll
hope we’ll get through it I’m going to read op this up we’re now going to be
cutting a cushion that’s not square but still hopefully will be a beautiful step
okay so I’m read opt once again and I’m going to work at putting a shape in
that’s gonna hopefully remove most of the inclusion that’s left I have a
little piece here that once I put three passes down the down the sides or five
whichever I decide it’s going to remove that and and so I’m gonna work at
forming a nice girdle and hopefully getting rid of most of the inclusions so
probably a little bit left of the cleavage plane but like I say it’s gonna
be right out at the girdle of the stone and its prime not gonna show up so I’ve finished cutting this tanzanite
using the new Bond 325 which is pretty much comparable to like a three thousand
metal disc so I’m going to polish directly from that and to do that I’m
going to use a bat lab and the bat lap is a tin alloy lap that is harder than
my tin laughs and produces a nice flat facet the bad lap use wd-40 to clean it off and then we get our diamond powder get
your finger a little greasy so you pick up some diamond this is 50,000 diamond and we spread it across the lab evenly
and now you’re ready to start polishing I generally run middle speeds on this
anywhere from slow to fairly high speed so I’m gonna start with the I’ve got
three rows of stem facets and sixty degrees 51 degrees and 41 degrees and
I’m going to start at the 60 degree because I’ve got a little bit of
inclusion I want to get out so I’m gonna polish until I remove it now up to now while cutting I use a
visor visor is much quicker to use than using a loop but once you start
polishing you’re going to need to move to the loop so you can see much closer so I’m making minor adjustments trying
to get back to where a polishing the entire passage and this has got just a teeny bit of my
imperfection left so I’m gonna polish a little bit deeper you don’t want to have
to polish too far because you’re gonna have to do that to all the other facets
you have to go too far you may as well go around and recut rather than trying
to polish something out this particular inclusion is very small
and it does break the surface so it shouldn’t cause any issues but better gone than there so that’s pretty much got a nice polish
on that facet you polish fastened what I’m talking about
the difference between light and dark is when that that transition between a
bright reflection to a dark reflection is where you’re going to see the fast at
the past and you can see this faceted smooth no dots it’s passive I finished cutting the pavilion now I’ve
got three rows of step facets that are at 41 51 and 60 degrees and now we’re
going to take it from the machine and we’re going to transfer it into a V dot and we’ll start cutting the crown after
glue dries so it’s time to remove our dot from the
crown side of the tanzanite and this is where I’ve had problems before but we’ve
I didn’t put glue underneath the dot but because of the way it formed to the top
of the stone there will be some glue underneath it so I will have to heat the
top so this shouldn’t be an issue but as I’ve said before it’s been an issue
before with with her stone that looked much like this so I’ve got most of the glue picked off
at this you do have to be careful when you’re doing this you know I want to get
as much off as I can but when you’re popping it out you can pop a little
chips off your stone so just be cautious and then once most of its off I triangle
around the edge of the dot quickly and just get us through as much of that as
possible sometimes it’ll pop off but I think in this area I’ve got glue
underneath it so we’re going to have to heat the DAP and just put the top over the flame hold
the stone tightly putting pressure on the stone whoop
and sometimes it pops off that easily but try and hold on to the stone
so we’re freed and ready to cut the crown of the stone
now that we’ve freed up the crown side of the stone as I tell my cutters the
first thing you have to go after is the problems and this stone has a problem
the angle here is going to determine what are what the angle that we’re going
to cut the girdle at and to do that I usually put it down on the lap try and
get a light and appropriate position find out where that’s at and try and visually see what’s flat not
too easy to do and after that we’ll cut a little bit and see just where we’re at
this is set at 46 degrees which is pretty low for the culet angle but it’s what we
have to work with still cutting through the glue that was
there set it up a little bit higher
like the get us much height to this first facet is
possible as Laura we cut it we cut away a lot of
the material that’s on the rest of the stone this is the low point
that we have to deal with the rest is down there plenty of material and we’d
like to keep as much of that as possible by getting this angle up as high as
possible so it looks like 55 degrees is about
where we’re gonna be which is good it’s a good starting point we’ll probably do
something like 55 30 or 35 for the three passing time to a
step cut round so that’s for our turtle 55° finish the step assets around that
that 55° and the broad electron facets close for the capacity trying determine
whether it’s completely square so as you go around and cut the entire
turtle if this isn’t completely rectangular parallel sides what’s gonna
happen is when you derive background of this pass try and make it as square as possible
and if it doesn’t match up so this is an issue you’ve been running
too far that’s what you get so normally this should be at zero we
normally start the lowest facet and set the gauge to zero but because we started
at the problem and it was on the end which is actually the highest point and
I use zero there once I get around to the thinner edge of the stone my gauge
is going to be under zero so it’s not a problem because we’re well above
critical angle and when you go to polish just remember where you started and if
remember that in this case I was on the end that I set the zero so if you start
polishing on the end and set it to zero everything’s going to work out okay I finished the stone not quite as big as
I’d hoped for but inclusions were definitely a problem I’d hoped for 30
carat maybe we’re in the 20k range it’s a fairly deep step cut so I’m hoping
tomorrow to take the out of the jar and we hit at least 20 carat and I could
still make some money so take it out of the machine and put it in the jar of
attack and I tomorrow should be free we’ll weigh it up and get ready for
heating and then we’ll move on to the next half of the stone and this stone
I’ve decided to cut it down the blue axis it’s gonna be a deep stone some
people may not like it because of the depth but it needs a lot of help color
wise this half the crystal didn’t have a lot of color so I’m gonna cut it right
on the blue and you know hope to get a 10 carat stone it will be a little
overly deep but we can design a pendant for it Christopher Michael designed
something and and build it in such a way you can’t see the depth but that extra
depth is going to add to the color of the stone and because we cut it in a
stepped emerald cut it should also add to the the depth of well it’s time to put our stones in the
oven and tomorrow we’ll find out whether it’s good because here’s our stones we
have a 16 carat and a 21 carat now the 21 carat has a little very teeny crystal
and inclusion down near the culet of the stone in crystalline inclusions can be
issues it can cause fracturing so what I’m gonna do I’m gonna heat very slowly
I’m gonna take 24 hours to go up 2050 degrees and hopefully the slow rate will
prevent the expansion of that crystal to create a fracture in the stone so I’m
going to put them in my vessel and cover them with investment this is to slow the
process of heating covered up and into the oven it goes so this is
going to take about 24 hours to finish this process usually hopefully will be
successful tomorrow and started it looks like 24 hours and 15 minutes before I
can open that oven back up so we’ve removed our stones from the oven they’ve
been in for 24 hours about twice what I normally do but it’s all because of my
fear of this stone cracking it has a few issues inside of one of them and as I’ve
noted all the way along this video I’ve been a little nervous about this
particular piece so we heated it slow over 24 hours and it cooled over the
last 12 hours and so now it’s time to see what we’ve got the risks here are
the ones known that’s included that I’m worried about weighs 21 carats even at
$400 a carat we’re looking at an $8,000 stone so that’s the risk at the moment all right let’s see what we’ve got so this is the 16 carat emerald cut and lighter color as I expected doesn’t look like any issues and of a
light salaam color tractor stone hello looks clean success and and a
really pretty purple color not the most intense color but beautiful stone good
brilliance and what a relief no cracks so we got a 21 karat that’s a little
more purple a little deeper color and then a 16 carat emerald cut so 37 carats
total weight out of our 112 carat tanzanite rock and no cracks and just
very attractive stones so I would put these at maybe this one 400 450 a carat
maybe this one someone in the 300 a carat in Christ you

Comments (75)

  1. Inspiring me to become a jeweler with every video thank you

  2. Great videos! I have been looking for a heater for jewels. Most are Chineese. Which do you reccomend?

  3. Love this. Thank you.

  4. hello, nice video , can you tell me what is the name of machine ? I am looking mainly for faceting hand.

  5. Great job Steve, in Australia we call that making silk purses out of sows ears. The colour change is spectacular to say the least. I enjoy watching you go about your work mate you make it look easy .

  6. That is an incredible piece of rough. Thanks for the videos!

  7. Another great vid, Steve. You are just about the only person on Youtube making such videos. Much appreciated.

  8. It's sad to see a nice crystal like that cut up to gems. I understand the economics, but so few marvelous crystals of tanzanite escape the diamond wheel.

  9. Many thanks! another great & instructive video! Whenever I'll visit the Midwest-USA again, I'll make sure visiting Crown Point. Thanks!

  10. Your such a gifted man. I'm new to faceting. So thank you for spending time to make such videos, as I'm learning so much.

  11. Crystals and stones are distinctly different, a stone is made of multiple xtals so a single xtal can NOT BE A STONE…. Those are fractures, not inclusions… There is a practical difference in these terms and I wish gem people would not be so careless with descriptions… Propagating the errors of careless historical gemologists is a poor tradition..

  12. Amazing work magnificent !! Congratulations!

  13. You should've never heated them. The original colors were more valuable

  14. Magnífico trabalho Steve. Congratulation, parabéns!

  15. These videos are so nice to watch! Thank you for uploading, but i keep wonder what stone you have in your ring :)? Is it à zirkon? Or a paraiba perhaps?

    Thank you again for all these videos, Cheers from Sweden.

  16. I'm not a jeweler and have never cut a stone but I love stones and was just wondering why not leave them the natural color? I'm aware tanzanite usually has a blue hue but the brownish bluish color of the natural stone was beautiful to me. Just my thoughts. Great video though.

  17. I've had a hankering for gem cutting lately and I'm thinking of getting into the hobby. I have one question. Where is the best place to buy loose gem stones?

  18. You have the nicest, neatest nails of any jeweler on youtube.

  19. A few weeks ago I didn't know anything about gem cutting. After coming across these videos now I have a deep desire to get into it. Thanks so much for uploading.

  20. A great video for sure. I do have to ask if you considered cutting the larger pieces off in tact? I use my band saw to trim away inclusions on stones this large. It preserves more of the gem than simply grinding away so much material. Just a thought I wanted to share.

  21. I shuddered when the stone started to chatter while polishing the table. That can damage your facet meets or even rip the stone from the dop.

    Get yourself a 45 degree adapter (or have one machined to fit your AT. That way you won't have the chattering risk. I bought my AT used and the previous owner had had a custom adapter made for him.

    Also, if the stone will tolerate it, you can soak the stone and dop in acetone to soften the epoxy and make it easier to remove.

    I also have a question. Is there any particular reason why Steve uses epoxy rather than dopping wax?

  22. Thanks so much for making these tutorials. Would you tell me what specific lapidary machine you are working with?

  23. Anybody know the name of the song at the 35 min mark?

  24. whoever disliked this video probably did it out of spite and jealousy. once again, I learned a lot today.

  25. Loves from Turkland.

  26. My like 💎🖒🖒🖒🖒🖒🖒💖

  27. very profesional this Man,,,,,,,,,,nice job

  28. ,
    . '.
    ` ' so thankful and beloved blessing

  29. Old way but gold way. Salute for him. He is a gifted gem cutter.

  30. Dear sir
    I need to your help
    You can tell me this all tools how to buy

  31. Really nice video, very educational, well done! I do have a question, you heat treated the tanzanite at 1000 degrees but don’t specify if was Celsius or Fahrenheit? I’m a member of the Livingston Gems and mineral society in Hartland Michigan…. Thanks

  32. Stunning stones, thanks for sharing your process!

  33. It seems the stone dictates alot of how it comes out. How do I become a lapidary?it takes me back to my days as a metal fabricator.

  34. great job sir.. hats off

  35. I’m hooked! Love watching you work.

  36. Thank you for the video it's very informative I have learned a lot from you one question though why wouldn't you heat up the stone while it's rough and heated up after it's cut instead, maybe you afraid the fracture would go further up and damage Stone ?

  37. I like your videos but please get one of the microphones you put on your shirt because it's very hard to hear you

  38. Thank you for your upload, I Novices have learned a lot, the last white powder for heating? What is it?

  39. The powder is casting investment which withstands the high temperatures.

  40. Great teacher 👍 God bless you.

  41. ware are you from ser

  42. Great video! Thanks for taking the time to show us.

  43. Never use a knife tower-eds your self

  44. I'd like to thank you for such an informative and inspiring set of videos. It is nice to see an artisan share his wealth of experience.

  45. I have a piece tanzanite. Unfortunately, it's so cracked and included that it looks like someone loaded it into a cannon and fired it into a brick wall. I'm not sure if it's the ugliest pretty stone or the prettiest ugly stone I have.

  46. Amazing !!
    Thank you for sharing your talents. I sure wish that I could be your apprentice, Cory

  47. I have one in a ring form ! From Sb Management Production. wilma Sb

  48. when It has green line in it. what is that ? wilma Sb

  49. Is there anyone else out there who can appreciate the absolute beauty of the natural cut Tanzanite? They do look spectacular when coloured but I really wish that more natural stones were made available. They can come in the most incredible colours. Is it just me or do others see this natural beauty as well?

  50. Wish I could work with you guys.

  51. Nice brilliant work, thanks Steve for ur video.

  52. I'm curious as to why you would not want to get it to hot when applying/removing the dop, knowing you need to heat treat it later. Would it not be better to have it shatter earlier on in the process, rather than after you've put in all the effort of faceting it? Or is less likely to shatter during heat treating due to the more even heat distribution?

  53. Turn subtitles on. 9:02 🤔

  54. you are a "GEM" of a person steve….. learnt a lot….

  55. Sir, You have Nerves of STEEL !

  56. great job man that was an engineering of gemstones

  57. Steve, I started faceting regularly about a year ago. My "training/lessons" have come almost completely from your videos. I've watched them all and some as many as five times.

    I not only listen carefully to every word you say, but have picked up many of your methods by just watching you cut. My wife, who has been faceting much longer than I will see me making a small move on the wheel and mention, "You do that exactly like Moriarty." To which I reply, "Exactly. He's my guru."

    Thanks for this great video and the many others you've produced.

    John in Las Vegas

  58. Hello,what is the white powder you ise to cover the gems during heating?thanks

  59. Holy shit so pretty after heating that's amazing

  60. Steve, thanks for such a beautiful work.

  61. a subtitle said "vagina Meds" at the beginning of the video. haha, great vid but hilarious…

  62. Wonderful you did great job you are artist. I love it 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

  63. this was like an open heart surgery : , so intense

  64. That stone proves your a pro! I would have told them to toss it back in the hole they found it in! Great job! Thanks for a very informative video. You need a microphone some where on you when you video. The text is ok but it blocks the stone when your showing it to us! Great job otherwise!

  65. Esplêndido, estou começando a trabalhar na arte do faceting, quero saber mais sobre o uso desses filtros.

  66. Great work!!!! wonderful, cheers!

  67. And , how do you cut and polish very tiny/small stones…. ???

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